July 22

got back on the road today.  tried to sleep a little bit later.  woke up at 4:30 and went back to sleep.  got up finally at 6:00, took what might be a last shower for awhile, and went downstairs to pack.  john was already up; he gets up by 5:30 to leave for work at 7:00.  when i came back in from packing, mary was up and cooked me breakfast.  i cannot tell you adequately how wonderful these people were to me.  they were very easy to be with.  we shared music, theatre, cycling, a game, and food in less than 36 hours.  i can't thank them enough.

the rest of the day was work.  my goal was to make it to culbertson, about 105 miles.  they have a nice little town park you're allowed to camp in.  the headwind was back, so it was a steady grind.  i was in my highest climbinig gear most of the time, and even running downhill i never got near my high gears.

i had been warned about the fort peck reservation; alchohol and violence.  when i got to wolf point, at the beginning of the tribal land, i came across my first real poverty.  i had stopped at a store to buy some fruit for lunch, then took it over to a little picnic park.  i started looking around and everyone at the other tables were poor, older folk, hanging out, looking needy.  i felt real uncomfortable, very white and affluent, so i loaded up and rode to the outside of town to another little roadside picnic area.  while i was sitting there, a big guy (we're talking 'chief' from one flew over the cucko's nest) came up, sat down and started to talk.  then he asked me for some money so that his girlfriend could bet some food.  i, nervously, said 'no', then realized i was eating.  so i offered him some of my trail mix.  he took a little, his girl friend didn't want any.  he said goodby, shook my hand, wished me luck, and left.  i sighed with relief.

the rest of the ride through the reservation i tried not to stop.  i did have to get water one time and the conex (gas, oil, convenience store chain) seemed safe.  while i didn't get any warm friendly vibes and the windows had bars on them, they did let me get water without incident.

made it to culbertson, asked directions, and was directed to a nice park.  no one else was there.  large covered picnic table area, playground, toilets, and lots of space.  it feels strange setting up a tent and sleeping in a town park.  it's a great idea that they allow this in these small towns in montana, but there's no signage or anything.  you just have to ask someone when you come into town, and they'll point you in the right direction.  in reality, i don't think there's any law enforcement anyway.  i've seen only three police cars my entire way across the hi-line, and at least one if not two were tribal police. one said 'sherriff.'

while i was setting up in the park a mobile home pulled up and settled in for a night's stay.  i cooked some ramen noodles for dinner.  carbs and sodium.  brewed a pot of tea and settled down for the night.